This article
contains the main theme for this research project,
and focuses on the introduction as well as further
knowledge of the traditional cooking ingredients of
the Truku tribe. Whenever traditional Truku
tribesmen sit down for drinks or meals at festivals,
they must first honor their ancestral spirits and
give thanks. Before eating and drinking, they scoop
a little of their food and place it on the ground,
and also dip their forefingers into their wine to
splash a little out, then they say Sus to thank
their ancestral spirits for their blessings.
Traditionally, Truku people’s staple foods include
millet, corn and sweet potatoes. These are commonly
cooked with pumpkins, ginger, wild vegetables, chili
peppers, beans and salt, and while some people may
keep pigs and chickens in their homesteads, others
hunt wild animals or catch fish and shrimp to
supplement their meals. In the past few decades,
however, their diet has been heavily influenced by
the Han people, and now regard rice as their staple
food, and only at festival, out of personal
preference or when outside visitors dine in do they
serve their traditional millet.
Bountiful harvest, game and crops on display at a
festival ritual
The Truku are
skilled
hunters,
and Truku hunters are able to find many kinds of
edible plants in the mountains, the most common of
which is the black nightshade. The leaves of this
plant are used in soups, one of the gourmet dishes
of traditional Truku. When we got to interview the
experienced Mr. Emmax Yudaw of Tong-lan Tribe in
Hualien County Shioulin Township, Emmax mentioned
that every April to June, small bamboo shoots are in
season. In valleys, beside streams or rockfall
areas, the shoots of the Margaret Rotang Palm can be
found. Both bamboo shoots and palm are good when
cooked with meat, and are suited to the palate of
the Truku people. The lady owner of Dageeli Tribal
House in Huanlien County Shioulin Township Chungde
Tribe also told us that the season in which beans
like pigeon peas are ready for harvest, coincides
with when hunters go up the mountain to hunt, in
fall and winter, and that beans cooked with game
makes great dishes as well.
As can be seen from the many
different varieties and details of the traditional
gourmet ingredients introduced in our interviews,
the Truku are a tribe of people well adapted to
their natural environment. The Truku utilize animals
and plant common to their habitat in their daily
diet, cook according to season and the life-cycle of
ingredients, and even meld together traditional
cuisine and festive rituals to form and pass down a
traditional food culture. Nowadays, although Truku
cuisine has changed in many ways due to their
interaction and integration with other tribes and
modern culture, but the spirit of living according
to nature still remained, and provides a foundation
on which we may hope to create a union between
traditional culture and innovative aspirations.
Just how many
other delicious traditional Truku ingredients are
there? Let’s take a look and see!
The scientific name of djulis is the
Chenopodium- formosanum, it is a grain
traditionally cultivated by the
aboriginal people of Taiwan, whom plant
and harvest in accordance with festive
rituals. According to the senior we
interviewed, Grandma Bao-shu He, Grandma
He said that the Truku believe Djulis
tastes better when made into wine or
cooked with white rice, because it
contains a certain sweetness. And
because the ears of flowers are colorful
and mystical, changing from green to
yellow to a violet red, the Paywan
tribes and
Rukai tribes also use djulis in their
headdresses.
Reference:
1. The ruby of grains, djulis is the
Chenopodium- formosanum. (2008).
Taiwan Environmental Information
Association-Environmental
Information Center.
http://e-info.org.tw/node/39818.
2. Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms. Bao-shu Hen,
Date of Interview: 2011.4.15[up]
2
Ginger
Truku name:usik
qapal
sound:
Scientific name: Zingiber
officinale Roscoe.
Introduction:
The edible part of ginger is its tuber,
it has the qualities of inducing
perspiration, elevating body temperature
to drive away the cold, and of improving
stomach function and spirits by making
you feel warmed up. Ginger can be used
as a condiment to improve food flavor,
and the more tender parts of it can be
preserved and eaten as a side dish. In
the mountains, you can often see people
plant ginger along the hillside and
harvest them at all times for home
cooking.
Formosan giant flying squirrel,
white-faced flying squirrel, and
Formosan hairy-footed flying squirrel
Flying squirrels are nocturnal animals,
and although they are called “flying”
squirrels, in truth they aren’t able to
fly, but glide from high boughs to the
ground using the patagium that stretches
between their body and limbs. Flying
squirrels commonly seen in Taiwan
include the Formosan giant flying
squirrel, white-faced flying squirrel,
and Formosan hairy-footed flying
squirrel. The Formosan giant flying
squirrel is the largest of them all,
with a fur that is reddish brown
speckled with bits of black; the
white-faced flying squirrel has a pure
white foreheads and cheeks, while the
rest of it is dark brown; the Formosan
hairy-footed flying squirrel has two
tufts of fine black fur sprouting from
either side of its ears.
The Truku are a tribe of skilled
hunters, when we interviewed Uncle
Guang-nan He of our community, Uncle He
told us that before decree was issued
that flying squirrels may not be
captured or killed, they often hunted
for the squirrels. Hunters would smoke
the meat dry up in the mountains, then
bring the dried meat down to share with
their tribesmen. The game they bring
down from the mountains are usually only
available in festivals or wedding
feasts. Because flying squirrels feed on
tender leaves, young shoots, fruits, and
seeds, some people even eat the
undigested food raw if any are found in
the squirrels’ digestive system after
they have been killed.
Reference:
1.
Animal list- Formosan giant flying
squirrel, White-faced flying squirrel,
Formosan hairy-footed flying squirrel.
Animal list- Ecological conservation-
Yushan National Park. http://www.ysnp.gov.tw/animallist.aspx.
Date of Retrieval: 2012.02.10.
2.
Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms. Bao-shu Hen,
Date of Interview: 2009.1.13[up]
4 banana
Truku name:blbul
sound:
Scientific name:
Musa sapientum
L.
Introduction:
The banana is an
important ingredient for making banana
rice, whenever the Truku hold festive
rituals or weddings, they share with
each other packets of wrapped banana
rice. They would mix ripe bananas with
sticky, wrap the mixture up in banana
leaves and steam it, and the result is a
rice that’s sweet with the fragrance of
bananas, and leaves a pleasant taste on
the palate.
Reference:
Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms.
Li-lan Wang,Date
of Interview: 2012.2.10 [up]
5 Pigeon peas
Truku name:sungut
sound:
Scientific name: Cajanus
cajan
(L.) Millsp.
Introduction:
The pigeon pea is
rich in starch and proteins, and is very
nutritious. Pigeon peas are harvested
every year from December to March, and
you can often see blooming pigeon tree
bushes with yellow flowers alongside of
the fields. Fall and winter are
traditionally the hunting season of the
Truku tribe, and ripe pigeon peas are
just in season to be cooked with game
meat to produce a delicious meal. The
dishes are so tasty, they always leave
you wanting for more!
Reference:
Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms.
Li-lan Wang,Date
of Interview: 2011.4.15 [up]
6 Makauy
Truku name:mqrig
sound:
Scientific name:Litsea
cubeba (Lour.) Persoon
Introduction:
Thefruit
of the makauy is round, black, and
small, kind of like the black
peppercorns we commonly see, but it
tastes much spicier and a little bit
astringent. Nowadays, there are quite a
few makauys planted on the hillsides of
Hongye Village, Hualien County Wan-rong
Township. Ms. Su-min Huang of Hongye
High-raised House Restaurant told us
that when makauy is harvested from the
mountains, the fruits must be carefully
picked off one by one, their pungent
smell often makes your nose tickle.
After the fruits have been washed clean,
they are marinated in salt and wine,
then they may be cooked and soups or
eaten as a side dish, they are spicy and
whet the appetite.
Reference:
Hongyeh Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms.
Su-min Huang,Date
of Interview: 2012.1.6 [up]
Bird’s nest
fern grows in the mid-lower altitudes of
Taiwanese mountainous areas, it is a
large ground or climbing fern that can
often be seen growing on tree trunks in
the mountains and hills. Taiwanese
bird’s nest ferns include Asplenium
nidus and Asplenium antiquum
Aspleniumnidu, the former has many
linear sporangiorus growing along the
small veins of leaves, and can take
reach up to 1/3 or 1/2 the length of the
vein; the linear sporangiorus of the
latter stems from midrib to leaf margin
or 2/3 of small veins.
The soft curling young
shoots of the fern is edible, and is
usually parboiled and eaten as a cold
dish. It is fresh, crunchy, nutritious,
and a good choice of food. When we
interviewed Aunt Shiou-su Wen, who
cultivates bird’s nest ferns, she told
us that ferns have no need of pesticides
and can be grown in natural
environments, therefore bird’s nest
ferns are a kind of a truly organic and
healthy vegetable!
Reference:
1.
Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms. Xiu-shu Wen,Date
of Interview: 2011.5.6
2.
Asplenium nidus. Taiwan Biodiversity
Information Facility Species lists.
http://taibif.org.tw/?tid=459. Date of
Retrieval: 2012.02.10.
8 Yam
Truku name:lmbay
sound:
Scientific name:Dioscorea
spp.
Introduction:
Yams are grown in sandy
soil rich in organic matter, it is in
season every November to the following
February. Its edible part is the tubers
growing underground, and may be tubular,
round, or palm-shaped; the color of yam
skins range from red, yellow, brown or
white; their flesh may be white, purple,
or red. Currently there are 14 species
and 5 variants of yams available in
Taiwan, with up to 140 different
strains.
The tubers may be cooked
in soups or with rice, yams that are
lightly cooked are crunchy in texture
while yams that have been fully cooked
are soft and airy, and are considered to
be a popular ingredient.
Reference:
Safe
yam. Council of Agriculture, Executive
Yuan, R.O.C.(Taiwan) Leisure and life
Fruits and vegetables, flowers, tea,
grains_ Safe yam. http://www.coa.gov.tw/view.php?catid=318.
Date of Retrieval: 2012.02.10. [up]
Small bamboo
shoots
can be found in the hills and mountains
all over the island, and propagate
themselves by means of hardy underground
stems. In low altitude mountainous
areas, you can often find entire forests
of bamboos and mature bamboo shoots.
According to the tribal senior Grandma
Bo-shu He, the Truku tribesmen not only
used to eat the delicious shoots, but
also take mature bamboo plants and make
them into tools, arrows, or as building
material for housing. Tender bamboo
shoots are in season in April and May,
and if you come too late you won’t see
any at all! Good food does not wait for
the tardy traveler!
Reference:
Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms. Bao-shu Hen,
Date of Interview: 2011.4.22[up]
10
Laugiu
Truku name:qusun
sound:
Scientific name:Allium
bakeri Regel
Introduction:
Laugiu looks
a little like the garlic we commonly see
and eat, it is small in size, and its
bulbs may be eaten raw, stir-fried,
salted, or preserved in vinegar. Its
leaves also provides for a good dish.
Laugiu is of high nutritional value, and
it is said that regularly eating laugiu
improves your immune system and makes
you less likely to be sick! Laugiu
improves the balance of mind and body,
and is a good diet source for all!
Reference:
1.
Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Ms.
Xiu-shu Wen,
Date of Interview: 2011.5.6
2.
Allium bakeri Regel. Taipei Botanical
Garden E-tour guide information
website_Database. http://tpbg.tfri.gov.tw/plants/plants_info.php?rid=879.
Date of Retrieval: 2012.02.10.[up]
11.
Rattan palm
Truku name:qwarux
sound:
Scientific name:Daemonorops
margaritae
Introduction:
The rattan palm grows
naturally in the mountains, but is now
sometimes artificially cultivated. Aside
from its roots, the rattan palm is
covered entirely with prickly thorns,
therefore one must be careful when
harvesting the plant, and should always
wear boots, gloves, and thick trousers
to prevent from being pricked by its
thorns. The young tender shoots of the
rattan palm are eaten, and can be cooked
in soups or stir-fried with meat. It has
a bitter taste, therefore even though
adults claim it is beneficial to bodily
health, few children care for this
delicacy.
Reference:
1.
Tongmen Village,
Shioulin Township
,
Hualien County. Interviewee:
Mr. You-hsiang Hsu
,
Date of Interview: 2009.12.4[up]
12 Black Nightshade
Truku name:pajiq
qulung
sound:
Scientific name:Solanum
nigrum L.
Introduction:
Solanaceae,
annual herb, seen in low-altitude areas
throughout Taiwan. Black nightshade soup
is a traditional Truku dish. It can
alleviate a hangover, clean bowels, and
treat a stomach ache.
Reference:
1.
Guide to Vascular Plants in Taiwan (VI)
—Black Nightshade. Retrieved on: Feb.
11, 2010. Website: http://subject.forest.gov.tw/species/vascular/4/book1/156.htm
2. Kaji Cihung (2008). Plants,
Culture and Tribal
Industries-Investigation Report on the
Truku Plants and Ecological Concepts.
2007 Stage 2 Research Project sponsored
by the National Culture and Arts
Foundation.
3. Lin, M.H. (2007). Study of Truku
Plants--Using Tatung Tribe of Shioulin
Township, Hualien County, as an example.
Master's thesis, Graduate Institute of
Ecology and Environmental Education,
National Hualien University of Education
(unpublished).[up]
13 Millets
Truku name:masu
sound:
Scientific name:Setaria
italica (L.) P. Beauv.
Introduction:
It belongs to Poaceae family and Setaria
genus. It is an annual plant, with
straight stalk, and grows lushly. It has
string or lanceolate leaves; its ligule
is a circle of hair, sometimes with
membranes. It is cylindraceous panicle,
looks like tassel or tightened on
branches, height 10-30 cm, drooping when
matured. Inner husk and its tassel are
equally long.
Taiwan millets have a long history in
cultivation. Perhaps they were
introduced by early migrant from
mainland China. They were the primary
food for early Taiwan indigenous people.
Usually they were planted at hillsides
in spring. Currently, Pingtung County
and Taitung County have the largest
production of millets.
According to an investigation by Taitung
District Agricultural Research and
Extension Station, Council of
Agriculture, there was 160 varieties of
millets in Taiwan. In the past,
“Puloyang” and “Gaolan” in Taitung
County, and Kuwali Yalin”, “Lala”, and
“Lukang” in Pingtung County has the
largest farming area of millets. These
varieties were inherited by the
indigenous people from various places.
Their origins are unclear; besides, due
to their long history of cultivation,
these breeds have already been mixed.
After breeding units’ seed selection,
Taiwan has 8 breeds; among them,
“Taitung 7” is the most widely
cultivated and promoted.
Reference:
1. A Short Record of
Taiwan Vascular Bundle Plants, Vol.
5—Millets. http://subject.forest.gov.tw/species/vascular/5/index-1.htm
2. Lin, W.J. (1996) Millets. A Handbook
of the Cultivation of Various and Small
Amount of non-Rice and –Wheat Products..
Agricultural and Forestry Department,
Taiwan Provincial Government.
3. Su, C.C. (2001) An Introduction to
Taiwan Delicate non-Rice and –Wheat
Products. non-Rice and –Wheat Products
and Livestock Products.
4. Agriculture and Food Agency
website—Millets. http://www.afa.gov.tw/
public_index.asp?CatID=85[up]
14 Maizes
Truku name:sqmu
sound:
Scientific name:Zea mays L.
[Maizes]
Written by: Zhi-yuan Wu
Introduction:
It belongs to the Poaceae family and Zea
genus. It is an annual plant with
straight stalks; it has supporting roots
at the base part of it stalk. It has big
and wide leaves, big ligule with hairs.
Male flowers grow at its top and are
cone-shape. Tassels are grow in pairs,
one with small stem, both have stamen;
external husk arepapery. Female flowers axillary with single raceme, which are
wrapped by various bud; small tassels
grow from plump stems, and are dense.
They are cultivated, can only be seen
beside fields and farms.
Maize was imported from Xifan (between
Yunnan, Tibet, and Myanmar) to China,
earlier than other American-originated
plants. According to A General Record of
Yunnan in Ming Dynasty’s Wanli period,
“Records of Dali Area” records that
maize was already widely cultivated.
Reference:
1. A Short Record of
Taiwan Vascular Bundle Plants, Vol.
5—Maize. http://subject.forest.gov.tw/species/vascular/5/index-1.htm
2. Chiba, T., trans. by Yu, J.R. “The
Maize Recorded in Ming’s Documents”.
Scientific Agriculture, 1973: Vol. 21,
Issue 5/6. http://seed.agron.ntu.edu.tw/
cropsci/ maize/yu01.htm
[up]
15 Sweet
Potatoes
Truku name:bunga
sound:
Scientific name:Ipomoea
batatas (L.)
Lam.
[Maizes]
Written by: Yan-rou Wu
Introduction:
It belongs to the Poaceae family and Zea
genus. It is an annual plant with
straight stalks; it has supporting roots
at the base part of it stalk. It has big
and wide leaves, big ligule with hairs.
Male flowers grow at its top and are
cone-shape. Tassels are grow in pairs,
one with small stem, both have stamen;
external husk are papery. Female flowers
axillary with single raceme, which are
wrapped by various bud; small tassels
grow from plump stems, and are dense.
They are cultivated, can only be seen
beside fields and farms.
Maize was imported from Xifan (between
Yunnan, Tibet, and Myanmar) to China,
earlier than other American-originated
plants. According to A General Record of
Yunnan in Ming Dynasty’s Wanli period,
“Records of Dali Area” records that
maize was already widely cultivated.
Reference:
1. Agriculture and
Food Agency Website—Edible Sweet
Potatoes. http://www. afa. gov.tw/public_index.asp?CatID=77
2. A Short Record of Taiwan Vascular
Bundle Plants , Vol. 4—Sweet Potatoes.
http://subject.forest.gov.tw/species/vascular/4/Book1/index-1.htm
[up]
16.Taro
Truku name:sari
sound:
Scientific name:Colocasia
esculenta (L.) Schott
Introduction:
It belongs to the Araceae family and
Colocasia genus. It is an herbaceous
wet-grown plant. Its Stem tubers are
egg-shape, having brown and rough skin,
with several wheel loops, their pulps
are white, light yellow or purple
dotted. Its leaves are wide and almost
circular shape or shield shape, and grow
on the top of the stems. Leaves’ points
are short and sharp or short and
gradually sharp. Its leafstalks are
red-brown or green, having red-brown
bases. Its tubers and leafstalks are
edible. Its tubers contains starch,
fiber, adhesive egg white, potassium,
magnesium, calcium, phosphorous, zinc,
and iron.
It originated from South Eastern Asia,
India and South China area. It was
imported to Taiwan by Taiwan aborigine
from South Eastern Asia, and then later
was imported from China and Japan. Since
its long history of cultivation, there
are many different breeds and varieties.
In terms of cultivation environment,
Taros can be divided into hydra taro and
drought taro. Bin-lang-hsin-yu and
Mian-yu are the most common taros on the
market. The former has better taste and
scent, thus, popularity, while the
latter is usually processed as taro
powder.
Reference:
1. The Fragrance of
Chiahsian Taro—The Taro File—Breeds of
Taro.
http:// librarywork.taiwanschoolnet.org/cyberfair2006/jxp1/index2a.htm
2. Hualien District Agricultural
Research and Extension Station—Column of
Production and Marketing
Squad—Agricultural Speciality. http://www.hdais.
gov.tw/10/農特產品/蔬菜/taro.pdf
3. Agriculture Website for Kids—Mita
Kaleidoscope—Organisms—Plants—Vegetables—Stem
Vegatables.http://kids.coa.gov.tw/knowledge.php?type=view
&code=A13&id=taita_taita_20080123104914
4. A Short Record of Taiwan Vascular
Bundle Plants, Vol. 5—Taro.
http://subject.forest.gov.tw/species/vascular/5/index-1.htm
[up]
17 Wild Boars
Truku name:bowyak
sound:
Scientific name: Sus
scrofa taivanus
[Wild
Boars]
Written by: Zhi-yuan Wu
Introduction:
Taiwan Wild Boars are smaller than ordinary farm
pigs. Their length from mouth to anus is about 70~90 cm; their heads
slightly protrude, with a thick disk-shape front end with nostrils.
They have small eyes, delicate tails with hairs. Young wild boars
have brown-yellowish and black strips, very lovely. When they grown
up, they become gray-black in colour. Their limbs are short, each
with four fingers. Male boars have developed fangs, while female
ones do not.
They are night animal, and polyphagia; mainly
eat young leaves, tubers, juicy fruit or crops grown by farmers.
They will also dig roots of trees or weeds; and lay on grasses to
rest. They often left cylindraceous beast track; life-span last
15~20 years. They appear in forest and twitch grass area throughout
Taiwan.
Reference:
1.
Yangmingshan National Park—Taiwan Wild Boars http://www.ymsnp.gov.tw/web/webpage.aspx?f=data_file/animal93/animal93_d3-12.htm
2. Digital Museum of Zoology, National Taiwan University —Mammal
Database—Taiwan Wild Boars.
http://archive.zo.ntu.edu.tw/mammal/r_mamm_index.asp?mamm_id=M0058
3.
Jianching Village, Wanrong
Township, Hualien County. Interviewee:
Mr.
Kuang-nan Ho,
Date of Interview: 2009.1.13
4. Tongmen Village,
Shioulin Township
,
Hualien County. Interviewee:
Mr. You-hsiang Hsu
,
Date of Interview: 2009.12.4[up]
18 Formosan Reeve’s muntjac
Truku name:pada
sound:
Scientific name: Muntiacus
reevesi micrurus
Introduction:
The Formosan Reeve’s muntjac
is a Cervidae, and is an endemic subspecies of Taiwan. It can found
in the mid to lower altitude forests of the island. The Formosan
Reeves’ muntjac is a small, cute animal. Every year from February to
June is its mating season, and its sharp, shrill barks are often
heard in the mountains, hence it is sometimes called the “barking
deer.”
Before hunting bans were decreed, the Formosan Reeve’s muntjac was
common game for the Truku tribesmen who rule the mountainous regions
of Taiwan, and were an excellent source of protein.
Reference:
Formosan
Reeve’s muntjac.
Yangmingshan National Park _Natural
resources database_Mammals.
http://gis.ymsnp.gov.tw/nature/sys_guest/Main_AL_frm.cfm?TAB_CLASS=AL&etab=DB_A_Mammal.
Date of Retrieval: 2012.02.10.[up]
19 Peanuts
Truku name:trabus
sound:
Scientific name: Arachis
hypogea L.
Introduction:
Peanut belong to the fabaceae family, and
because after the peanut flower blooms, its gynophore burrows into
the soil and grows into a pod, therefore it is also called the
“earth bean.” Peanuts are an important grain in Taiwan, and one of
the secondary staple foods of the Truku. There are many ways to cook
peanuts, such as sautéing them directly, boiling them, cooking them
in meat stews, or husking them and grinding them into peanut powder.
Bouncy mochi covered with sweetened peanut powder is a favorite
snack beloved by children!
Reference:
Agriculture and
Food Agency, Council of Agriculture, Executive Yuan, R.O.C.
_Peanuts. http://www.afa.gov.tw/public_index.asp?CatID=10. Date of
Retrieval: 2012.02.10.
20
Squash
Truku name:baun
sound:
Scientific name: Cucurbita
moschata
Introduction:
The squash is a trailing herbaceous plant
cultivated for its fruit. In Taiwan, squash can be grown throughout
the entire year, but are best sown during the months of November to
January. You can often recognize the big white-lined leaves of the
squash growing along the vines that trail over the ground in
vegetable gardens. Squash is one of the secondary staple foods of
the Truku, and are usually boiled directly, or eaten with meat. Some
country restaurants dip squash slices or flowers in batters and fry
them, giving them a unique texture that is crunchy on the outside,
and tender on the inside.
Reference:
Network
Botanical Garden_Squash. http://www.floral.com.tw/floral/floristbypermalink/a5c5f702bde53de348256fe000093935.
Date of Retrieval: 2012.02.10.[up]