Seven common
senses of Chinese: firewood, rice, oil, salt, soy sauce,
vinegar, and tea. Soy sauce is a necessary seasoning in
every Chinese household. It also deeply influences food
culture in Taiwan.
In 1661 (Ming Dynasty, Yong-Li 15), Zheng Cheng Gong moved
to Taiwan and brought the techniques of the fermentation of
soy sauce. At that time, the raw materails for fermenting
soy sauce is black soybean produced in Taiwan. Then the
self-sufficiency of soy sauce spreads out to many places.
In 1895, Taiwan was partitioned and ruled by Japan. The
Japanese bought the techniques of fermenting soy sauce with
soybean and wheat.
In 1901, the first factory of soy sacue for profit is
founded in Taiwan.
In 1930, the industry of soy sauce became one of the most
important commodity sector industry of food.
In 1941, World War II, the Japanese initiated the Pacific
War. The industry of food is controlled strictly by
military. The industry of soy sauce is of no exception. The
delivery and production of soy sauce is controlled directly
by Japanese colonial administration.
In 1946, the liberation of Taiwan from Japanese rule , the
control over over the production and delivery of soy sauce
is released. The need of soy sauce in market is progressing.
The production of soybean-wheat sauce and chemical sauce
rised. The manufacturing of soy sauce is flourishing in
Taiwan.
In 1977, the blossom of the economy in Taiwan effect the
progress of the industy of soy sauce. With the advantage of
assets, large-scale factories produced chemical soy sauce
fast in low cost by machines. With the help of the media and
advertisement, the channels of sale changed. The compition
and pressure in market oppressed the factories of
traditional-fermented soy sauce which is laborious and time
consuming.
In 1991, according to the general survey, there are 203
factories of soy sauce in Taiwan.
In 1996, the amount of the factory of traditional-fermented
soy sauce reduced to 171. Now, there are 20 factories of soy
sauce in Tainan.
Aroma in Kitchen Flavor by Grandma
The soy
sauce factory of Wan Wei Xiang founded in 1969, by Huang Yu-Hui.
When he was young, he learned how to make soy sauce as an
apprentice in Sin-Yin soy sauce factory. Because of the
bankruptcy of the soy suauce factory, and to maintain his
own livehood, he took over the factory, including the
techniques, production equipment, and the clients.
Therefore, he went back to his hometown, Jing-liao
village(Landof Rice), and started his career of fermenting
soy sauce.
In early
farming society, there are many small-scaled factoies that
fermenting traditional soy sauce. The sales limit in
neighboring villages. Soy sauce is sold by bikes house to
house. The sellers would go to the houses and restock the
sauce and made records of the use of soy sauce. For most
people were poor in the past farming society, the accounts
would be settled after the rice harvest, even after Chinese
New Year.
Aroma of Wait Flavor of Cherish
"At the time of cock-crowing in the morning, the aroma
of boiled black soy bean comes from the window." The
production process of blackbean soy sauce takes time and
labor. From choosing to washing, boiling and koji-making, it
takes several days and nights to control the temperature and
humidity of fermentation. Once carelessness, the entire
efforts would be spoiled. The aromatic flavor of soy sauce
would be fermented and ripened after 180 days of
solarization.
The
soy sauce factory of Wan Wei Xiang produced tradition manual
soy sauce with transparent, delicately colored broth with
balanced flavor and aroma. It takes time and acient
techniques to ferment the flavor and aroma. The passion of
fermentation also aroused your memory of the smell and
taste of grandmaˇ¦s old kitchen.
The
traditional blewed soy sauce is fermented by natural
microorganism. The ingredients of flavor
becomes very comlicated. There are more than 300 components
being founded. (Nunomura,1978~1984)
ˇC
The key factors of
producing black soybean sauce:
1. The producer: In
the process of manual fermentation, the producer has to
control the temperature and humidity at all times.
2. Ripening:
The aromatic flavor of soy sauce would be fermented and
ripened after 180 days of
solarization.
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